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Monday, 11 May 2015

The Great Manastambha and other temples of Karkala

The famed Jain heritage centre in Udupi district, Karnataka.

Great Manasthambha of Hiriyangadi in Karkala, Udupi district, Karnataka, India
Great Manasthambha of Hiriyangadi, before the entrance to the Hallara Basadi (right) and the entrance to Neminatha Basadi Jain Temple

Continuing from the last part, here is the rest of our trip to Karkala, featuring the great Manasthambha before Shri Neminatha Mandir at Hiriyangadi, and also including Shri Anantapadmanabha Temple and Ramasamudra lake of Karkala.

Karkala town in Udupi district of Karnataka is home to several historically significant hundreds of years old Jain temples or basadis. Many historical structures like the great Manasthambha before the Neminatha Mandir at Hiriyangadi, stand in Karkala as wonderful examples of art and architecture.


About Karkala

A view of the Great Manasthambha of Hiriyangadi, in Karkala
The Great Manasthambha of Hiriyangadi, Karkala

Karkala is home to several hundreds of years old Jain and Hindu Temples that stand to date as an evidence of a rich and diverse cultural history of Coastal Karnataka and surrounding regions and their wonderful examples of art and architecture.

Some of them are now protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), like the Ananthapadmanabha temple, built in 1567 CE, the Chathurmukha Basadi, The monolith of Lord Bahubali Gommateshwara and the Manasthamba at Hiriyangadi.

Karkala is one of the places worth visiting if you happen to be at Udupi or Mangalore (now renamed as Mangaluru) on a tour.

Our Karkala Trip - Part 2

Continuing from Part-1 : Chaturmukha Basadis of Karkala, and the Karkala Gommateshwara Monolith, here is the remaining part of our Karkala trip.

Other Historical Basadis of Karkala

From Chaturmukha Basadi, on our first Karkala trip, we went searching for more historically significant temples.

Shravana Basadi

On the road, near the Anekere Basadi, we found Shravana basadi, with Chandranatha swamy as the main deity.

Shravana Basadi Jain Temple in Karkala, Udupi district
Shravana Basadi Jain Temple in Karkala.

Shravana Basadi has a small pillared open hall on the front. As some other older basadis or temples of Karavali or Coastal Karnataka region, it has the typical slanted stone shades.

The Great Manastambha and the Basadis around Shri Neminatha Temple of Karkala

Next, we headed to the group of Jain Temples with Neminath Basadi and the Great Manasthambha before it, along with five other Basadis or Jain Temples around this towering monolithic column, at Hiriangadi in Karkala. That is, there are totally six Jain temples here in this group at Hiriyangadi, with Shri Neminatha Basadi being the largest and the main one here.

The Great Manastambha
A full view from the western side of the Great Manasthambha at Hiriyangadi, in Karkala
A view of the Great Manasthambha at Hiriyangadi, Karkala.

The Great Manasthamba stands gloriously in the space between six Jain temples, to the east of Shri Neminatha Basadi. A Manasthambha means a column of honour, which are huge carved monolithic granite pillars that are often found before or beside Jain temples of this region.

This great manasthambha pillar was installed around the middle of the 15th century by Pandya, the grandson of Bhairava I who had established the control of the Kalasa house over Karkala region for the first time.

Measuring 16.5 metre or 54 feet in height, this manasthambha in front of the Neminatha Mandir is one of the protected monuments by the ASI.

View of the great manastambha from the premises of Neminatha Mandir Jain Temple, when maintenance work was going on with scaffolding around it, in Hiriyangadi, Karkala
A view of the great manastambha from the premises of Neminatha Mandir Jain Temple, when maintenance work was going on during our first visit.

Maintenance works were going on that day with scaffolding all around it, so we visited again last month during our visit to the Bahubali Gomateshwara monolith, for a better view of the great Manasthambha! That is, the other pictures here of this great Manasthambha without scaffolding are from our more recent second visit.

(Not to be confused with the Neminatha Basadi (also called Neminath Mandir), an over 1200 year old Jain temple at Varanga, which is also in Karkala taluk).

Great Manasthambha of Hiriyangadi in Karkala, Udupi district, Karnataka, India
A Close up of the Great Manasthambha at Hiriyangadi in Karkala, and the intricately carved splendid figures and designs on it.
Neminatha Basadi

The construction of Neminatha Mandira or Basadi here at Hiriyangadi, Karkala, is attributed in an inscription of Bhairava I [1]

A view of Shri Neminatha Basadi Jain Temple, in Karkala, Udupi district
A view of Shri Neminatha Basadi of Karkala.

The Neminatha basadi now stands renovated with new tiles covering up on the outer side. It is attributed as Neminatha Mandir, meaning Neminatha Temple on one of the signboards in the premises. It was closed at the time, and we could not have a look inside.

Great Manasthambha of Hiriyangadi in Karkala, Udupi district, Karnataka, India
Great Manasthambha of Hiriyangadi, and the large entranceway to Shri Neminatha Basadi Jain Mandir seen in the background towards the left. The entranceway and enclosure seen on the right is for the enclosure that has the Hallara Basadi and Gururaya Basadi.

This is an east facing temple with its main door at the east side. This temple also has a large entranceway porch on the east side which leads to its inner premises of its enclosure. This entranceway faces the Great Manasthamba.

A closer look at one of the beautiful ornately carved pillars of Shri Neminatha Basadi in Hiriyangadi, Karkala
A closer look at one of the beautiful ornately carved pillars of Shri Neminatha Basadi of Karkala.

It has the typical style of the slanted stone roofing but with brick tiles instead of stone slabs, with architecture similar to other basadis such as the Thousand pillared basadi of Moodabidri, but much smaller in size. The caretaker of the Baradi basadi informed us that it was renovated just last year.

We do not know how it looked before, but only two beautifully carved pillars on the front look like original rock pillars. They look old and have a slightly worn out look. The rest of the pillars seem new and covered with glazed tiles, as most of the outer walls.

A beautiful Mandapa or Porch before Shri Neminatha Basadi Jain Temple in Hiriyangadi, Karkala
A view of the beautiful Mandapa or Porch before Shri Neminatha Basadi Jain Temple
The finely carved cieling of the mandapa just before Shri Neminatha Basadi at Hiriyangadi in Karkala
The finely carved cieling of the mandapa or porch just before Shri Neminatha Basadi of Karkala.

The Neminatha basadi itself does not have any more stone pillars on the outside. The porch on the front has pillars, but a couple of them seem newer as they seem to have a lesser worn out look.

Bala Basadi, an ornate shrine inside Shri Neminatha Basadi premises in Hiriyangadi, Karkala
Bala Basadi, an ornate shrine inside Shri Neminatha Basadi premises

There are two ornate shrines on the either sides of Neminatha Basadi. They are, Chandranath Swamy Basadi or Eda basadi (meaning left temple) and Adinath Swamy Basadi or Bala Basadi (meaning right temple).

Other Jain Temples around Shri Neminatha Basadi

The Neminatha temple surroundings at Hiriyangadi has five more basadis around the Great Manasthambha pillar, within a total of three enclosures around the manasthambha. A small door through entranceway leads to them inside their enclosure.

While Neminatha Basadi is east-facing, the other Basadis in the complex are not.

On the enclosure towards the right side or the North side of the great manasthambha, there are two Jain temples - the Hallara Basadi and the Gururaya Basadi.

A South-East view of the Hallara Basadi in Hiriyangadi, Karkala
A South-East view of the Hallara Basadi, one of the four Jain Temples around the Great Manasthabha and Neminatha Basadi in Hiriyangadi, Karkala. The main entrance of this Jain temple faces south.

Among them, the Hallara Basadi with Parshwanatha Swamy and Padmawathi Devi as deities. It derives the name Hallara basadi, as it was built by the Hallas.

As it contains an idol of goddess Padmavati Devi, who is called as Ammnavaru, it is also called as Ammanavara Basadi. This basadi also has an idol of Goddess Saraswati. This is a south facing temple.

South-West view of the Hallara Basadi in Hiriangadi, Karkala
A South-West view of the Hallara Basadi in Karkala.

The Hallara basadi was newly painted at the time of our visit. It has the flat stone roofing with the typical slanted stone shades which is also seen in other older temples of this region. It has a main entrance towards south, with two more doors on either side adjacent to the main door. There is one more entrance towards west, but none towards east.

A south-west side view of Shri Gururaya basadi at Hiriyangadi in Karkala
Gururaya basadi at Hiriyangadi in Karkala
Halegannada (Old Kannada) inscriptions at Gururaya basadi, in Hiriyangadi, Karkala
Halegannada (Old Kannada) inscriptions on a stone slab embedded on the front side of Gururaya basadi.

The other basadi in this enclosure is Gururaya basadi, featuring a Halegannada (Old Kannada) inscription.

To the left side or the South side of the great manasthambha, there are three more basadis, each in an enclosure, all facing towards north. Two are in a sub enclosure in the western side, and one in the eastern side. A wall separates these two sub enclosures. In the western subenclosure, the basadis are smaller in size, but of similar style of architecture.

They are the Baradi basadi or Sri Shanthinatha Swami Guru Basadi on the west side of the sub enclosure, and Ananthanath digambar Jain basadi, or the Kallu Basadi on the east side. These were built by the Baradi family.

Entering through the front side of Baradi basadi or Sri Shanthinatha Swami Guru Basadi Jain Temple at Hiriyangadi, Karkala
A view of Baradi basadi or Sri Shanthinatha Swami Guru Basadi Jain Temple at Hiriyangadi, Karkala. The front entrance seen here faces North. There is a small mandapa or porch just before this temple and a smaller structure or a small free-standing shrine on its West side.
East side view of Baradi basadi or Sri Shanthinatha Swami Guru Basadi Jain Temple along with the small mandapa or porch before the temple and a small well beside it, at Hiriyangadi, Karkala
East side view of Baradi basadi or Sri Shanthinatha Swami Guru Basadi Jain Temple.
Ananthanath digambar Jain basadi or Kallu Basadi Jain Temple, in Hiriyangadi, Karkala
North-West view of the front and side of Ananthanath digambar Jain basadi or Kallu Basadi Jain Temple, with a small mandapa before it.

As you can see from the pictures, these temples also feature the typical slanted stone shades, and have an architecture similar to Shri Neminatha Basadi.

A front view of Shri Adinathesha Basadi at Hiriyangadi, Karkala
Shri Adinathesha Basadi at Hiriyangadi, Karkala.

There is one more small basadi on the eastern side of the Great Manasthambha and it stands within its own small enclosure. This Jain temple is called Adinathesha basadi and it also features the typical slanted stone roofing.

From here, we headed towards Mangalore (now renamed as Mangaluru), making a short stop at the Thousand pillared Basadi at Moodabidri. But we returned to Karkala again last month visiting the Bahubali Gomateshwara monolith and the Manasthambha at Hiriyangadi.

Ananthapadmanabha Temple of Karkala

After visiting the Gommateshwara monolith of Karkala, we headed to the ~448 year old Shri Ananthapadmanabha temple, right inside Karkala town. It is also called Sheshashayi Ananteshwara temple.

Built in 1567 CE, this Hindu temple is one of the protected monuments under the ASI.

A view of Shri Ananthapadmanabha Temple complex in Karkala
Shri Ananthapadmanabha Temple complex in Karkala

When you first look at the temple within the cloistered walls, it looks exactly like a Jain Temple. The temple and the idol of the main deity face towards the west here, while usually the Hindu temples and their main deities typically face towards the east.

The main deity here is the Hindu God Shri Vishnu resting on the coils of his serpent Adisesha. The speciality being that the deity in this sculpture is in the resting form, and not in a standing posture.

A view of Shri Anathapadmanabha temple, Karkala
Karkala anathapadmanabha temple. Photo Credit: Shiva shankar. Licensed under CC BY-SA 2.5 via Wikimedia Commons. (Our picture similar to this view seems to be missing in our archive, so this one is from an external source)

This temple was built to be a Jain Basadi, that’s why it looks like one but was turned into a Hindu Temple by the King. The story goes like this. In the year 1567 CE, the then Sringeri Jagadguru came to Karkala.

When the Jain king welcomed him to Karkala, the swamiji told the king that he would stay only if there is a temple there. So the King gave this building which was supposed to be a basadi and it was turned into a temple.

Ramasamudra Lake of Karkala

Ramasamudra Lake, in Karkala, Udupi district, Karnataka, India
At Ramasamudra Lake in Karkala

After a short visit to Anantapadmanabha temple, we headed to Ramasamudra lake. It was evening by then, and we thought of relaxing by the lake. Ramasamudra lake is a historical lake, said to be built by Veera Bhairava in his dead son Ramanatha’s memory.

A view of Ramasamudra Lake and the lush greenery around it, in Karkala, Udupi district
A view of Ramasamudra Lake in Karkala, from its banks.

One access to the lake is through the Karkala municipal “park”. This was supposed to be or at one point of time might have been a maintained park. As of now, it doesn’t seem like a park; but rather looks like the ruins of a park!

Some old concrete benches and rusted playground equipment lie in ruins, with randomly overgrown shrubs, bushes and foliage everywhere. We tried a couple of approaches to the lake, carefully watching out for snakes.

A view of Ramasamudra Lake from above the rocky hill by it, in Karkala
A view of Ramasamudra Lake from above the rocky hill by it.
A view of Ramasamudra Lake from above a rocky hill by it, in Karkala
Another view of Ramasamudra Lake from above the rocky hill by it.
A view of Ramasamudra Lake from above a rocky hill by it, in Karkala
Another view of Ramasamudra Lake from above the large rocky hill by it.

At one approach from above the rocks near the entry, there were some broken bottles on the rocks. As the rocks can get slippery with moisture especially during rainy season, it isn’t recommended to descend or walk here. The view of the lake from here is good.

A plant in Ramasamudra Lake of Karkala, Udupi district
A plant in Ramasamudra Lake, near its banks. Do you know what plant this is?
A plant in Ramasamudra Lake of Karkala, Udupi district
Another view of this plant in Ramasamudra Lake, near its banks.

At another side of the lake, we saw the Bahubali Gommateshwara monolith of Karkala and the structure surrounding it, visible on the hilltop at a distance towards south, and also the Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala on a hillock at a distance towards south-west.

A view of Ramasamudra Lake with the Chaturmukha Basadi Jain Temple seen atop a hillock (on the right) and the Bahubali Gomateshwara Monolith (on the left), in the background, in Karkala, Udupi district
A view of Ramasamudra Lake with the Chaturmukha Basadi Jain Temple seen atop a hillock (on the right) and the Bahubali Gomateshwara Monolith (on the left), in the background.

The lake and the surroundings are undoubtedly beautiful. But the approach and the so called park are in shambles. This place was quite isolated at the time of our visit. So, it may not be a good idea to come here as a couple or alone. Also, there might be snakes lurking in the overgrown shrubbery and the leaves fallen on the land.

The lake however attracts variety of birds, and could be a treat to birdwatchers. Had this park been maintained well, the lake could have been a splendid attraction.

There are however other approaches to the lake from other sides. Its a large lake with a shape that looks like the letter "Y". It can be accessed from near the Bommaraja Basadi going ahead in the Gommateshwara road (Zoom and see below Location Map for Karkala ).

Relaxing some time here we headed back, thus bringing an end to our Karkala trip.

Karkala is a culturally rich place with several historically significant monuments, and a serene natural environment. It has all the potential to be a popular tourist destination.

Other attractions in Karkala


Tips for Travellers

Getting there & Transportation

Karkala is about 17 kms from Moodabidri, 51 kms from Mangalore (Mangaluru) , 37 kms from Udupi via Moodubelle & 40 kms from Udupi via Manipal-Hiriadka road, 58 kms from Sringeri. Also, Agumbe is ~49 kms ; Venur is ~ 36 kms and Barkur is ~ 49 kms from Karkala.

There are a good number of buses that ply to Karkala from Mangalore, Udupi etc. Hiring a cab or some 4 wheeler is a good option, as you can easily cover other nearby places of attractions worth visiting. If you are visiting Mangaluru or Udupi, then Karkala is well within a day trip. Nearby Moodabidri can also be covered.

Food & Accommodations

There are a few decent places to have food in the town. There aren't much great hotels or lodges in Karkala. However, one can stay in Udupi or Mangaluru, and then travel to Karkala covering other significant places along.

Best Times to visit

During the winter, between October to February or March, before the summer heat begins. It gets extremely hot and humid during summer (March/April to May/June).

If you simply love the monsoon rains, go ahead in rainy season (around June to September). But keep an eye on the weather in the rainy season, as the roads this time may be bad.

Location Map of Places to visit in Karkala


Get Directions to Karkala from your place of choice
Note: The directions will open up with Google Maps in a new tab.

Nearby Places and Attractions

  • Moodabidri - Featuring the Thousand Pillared Jain Temple (Saavira Kambada Basadi), and other historical Jain temples. (Just 17 km from Karkala)
  • Varanga (~24 Kilometres from Karkala town) - An idyllic village which is home to the 850 year old Kere Basadi (Lake temple) and the Neminatha Basadi, a 1200 year old Jain Temple.
  • Mangaluru and Dakshina Kannada district features several beaches, temples and other places worth visiting
  • Agumbe – The sunset view point in Agumbe at an elevation of 643 m (2,110 ft) is a very popular spot in Shimoga district.
  • Udupi town and district features the famed sri Krishna temple and other temples, St.Mary's island, an ideal picnic spot, and many more.
  • Chikkamagalur district features lush green mountains, waterfalls and landscapes. Mullayyanagiri, Kemmannugundi, Baba budangiri, Bhadra wildlife and river camps are some of the major attractions. It also has some fine Hoysala Temples, for example the Amrutesvara Temple at Amruthapura.
  • 35 feet Gomateshwara Monolith at Venoor (36 km from Karkala)
  • 39 feet Gomateshwara Monolith and Manjunatheshwara temple at Dharmasthala (63 km from Karkala)

References
[1] Great Manasthambha at Hiriyangadi - ASI Bengaluru circle
[2] Anantapadmanabha Temple - ASI Bengaluru circle
[3] Jain Statue of Gomateshwara - ASI Bengaluru circle
[4] Centres of serenity - Deccan Herald

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