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Thursday, 19 March 2015

Chaturmukha Basadi, the symmetrical four-sided Jain Temples of Karkala

The Four-Sided Symmetrical Jain Temples of Karkala, the famed Jain heritage centre in Udupi district, Karnataka

Tribhuvana Tilaka Jina Chaityalaya or Ratnatraya dhama, the Chaturmukha Basadi in Karkala, Udupi district, Karnataka, India
Tribhuvana Tilaka Jina Chaityalaya or Ratnatraya dhama, the Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala

Karkala, a town in Udupi district in Karnataka is home to several historical and significant Jain temples or basadis which are over hundreds of years old, with the architecturally prominent and unique Chaturmukha Basadi, the symmetrical Jain Temple with four identical sides, with its four similar sides facing four different directions - the north, east, south, and west.

About Karkala

Karkala is a town and also a taluk in Udupi district of Karnataka state in India. Many historical structures stand in Karkala as wonderful examples of art and architecture.

Some of them are now protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), like the Ananthapadmanabha temple, built in 1567 CE, the Chathurmukha Basadi, The monolith of Lord Bahubali Gommateshwara and the Manasthamba at Hiriyangadi. These are just some of the places to see in Karkala. Its anglicised name was Karkal.

Karkala is also home to several hundreds of years old Jain and Hindu Temples that stand to date as an evidence of a rich and diverse cultural history of Coastal Karnataka and surrounding regions.

Karkala is one of the places worth visiting if you happen to be at Udupi or Mangalore (now renamed as Mangaluru) on a tour.

Basadi means a Jain shrine or temple.

Brief History of Karkala

Known as Pandya Nagari in the ancient times, later known as Karikallu (Black stone), Karkala appears to have been under the Alupas, the feudatories of the Kadambas in 6th century CE.

The Kalasa-Karkala kingdom was established by the Bhairarasa Odeyas spanning from 13th to 16th century CE.[1] Karkala gained political and cultural importance during this time.

Our Trip to Karkala

Taking a ride from Udupi, with lush green surroundings along the road, we reached Karkala.

A view of trees and greenery by the Udupi - Karkala road via Hiriyadka, Udupi district, Karnataka
A view of trees and greenery by the Udupi - Karkala road via Manipal and Hiriyadka.
A view of the Udupi - Karkala road via Hiriyadka, going through trees and greenery, in Udupi district
On the way to Karkala, from Udupi, along the Udupi-Karkala road via Manipal and Hiriyadka.
A view of tree and the sun shining through the clouds, along the Udupi - Karkala road via Hiriyadka, Udupi district
Tree and clouds, on the way to Karkala from Udupi, during our trip.
A view of tree and cloud salong the Udupi - Karkala road via Hiriyadka, Udupi district
Tree and clouds, on the way to Karkala from Udupi, during our trip.

Away from the hustle bustle of the big cities, a drive through the greenery is always refreshing.

Aane kere Basadi - the Lake Temple of Karkala

The first place we saw, as we arrived in Karkala town, was a Digambar Jain Basadi, situated in the Aane kere lake of Karkala, visible passing by the main road through the Karkala town.

Aane Kere Basadi (Elephant Lake Temple) in Karkala, Udupi district
A view of Aané Kéré, the Elephant Lake of Karkala which has a Chaturmukh Jain temple amidst it.

Aane kere in Kannada means elephant lake (aane=elephant, kere=a small lake in Kannada)(Also spelt as ane kere). This historic lake and the basadi situated in the midst was built by King Pandya VI and said to have supported Karkala with drinking water for centuries.

As the kings elephants used to bath here, it got its name as Aane kere. Now, the water is covered completely by some kind of water plants or weeds over the lake, spoiling the look.

Aané Kéré Basadi (Elephant Lake Temple) in middle of Aané kere in Karkala, Udupi district
Aané Kéré Basadi in the midst of Ané Kéré lake in Karkala.

Also, this lake was reportedly larger, and is shrinking due to apathy and neglect [2]

What looks like a supposed to be park or garden in the front of the lake is not maintained. If properly utilised, this can be turned into a popular tourist spot.

Kere Basadi is located in the middle of Anekere lake with the 1st Jain Tirthankar Shri Adinath as the main diety. It is also a Chaturmukha Basadi, i.e., it has idols and doors on all the four sides.

Flock of birds in the Aane Kere, before the Aane Kere Basadi (Elephant Lake Temple) in middle of Ane kere in Karkala, Udupi district
A close-up with a flock of birds over the Aané Kéré, before the Aané Kéré Basadi of Karkala.

Anekere features various birds [3], and you may love it if you are into bird watching and photographing birds. We saw a flock of birds over the lake during our visit. Alas, we aren't such experts in birds to tell you more about them ourselves!

Ramasamudra lake is another lake in Karkala, said to be built by Veera Bhairava in the memory of his dead son Ramanatha. (We cover it in the next post in our Karkala series).

Also See : Kere Basadi - The Lake Temple of Varanga, which is also a Chaturmukha Basadi.

From Aane Kere, we proceeded towards the famed Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala, which is at a short distance from there.

The Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala

A north-west side view of Tribhuvana Tilaka Jina Chaityalaya, well known as the Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala, Udupi district
A north-west side view of Tribhuvana Tilaka Jina Chaityalaya or Ratnatraya dhama that is well known as the Chaturmukha Basadi” of Karkala. The Bahubali Gommateshwara monolith of Karkala is seen at a distance on a hill, to the right, in the background.

The most prominent and architecturally significant Jain temple or basadi of Karkala is the Tribhuvana Tilaka Jina Chaityalaya or Ratnatraya dhama (according to inscriptions), which is polularly known as the “Chaturmukha Basadi”, which means a basadi, or temple with four faces.

Although this is not the only Chaturmukha Basadi in Karkala, when someone refers to Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala, this is it.

ribhuvana Tilaka Jina Chaityalaya or Ratnatraya dhama, the Chaturmukha Basadi on the rocky hillock in Karkala, Udupi district
The Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala, on the rocky hillock, seen as we arrived there.
Steps leading to the entrance to the courtyard of Tribhuvana Tilaka Jina Chaityalaya or Ratnatraya dhama, the Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala, on a rocky hillock, in Karkala, Udupi district
Steps leading to the entrance to the courtyard of Tribhuvana Tilaka Jina Chaityalaya, the Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala, on a rocky hillock.

Climbing the steps to the top of this rocky hillock, we went into the courtyard of this large magnificent stone temple that stands majestically on this rocky hill.

South side of Chaturmukha Basadi in Karkala, Tribhuvana Tilaka Jina Chaityalaya, in Karkala, Udupi district
A view of the southern side and door of Chaturmukha Basadi, as seen from the entranceway to the courtyard of this splendid temple made of carved granite.

On seeing it, you will realise how it obviously got its name. The Chaturmukha Basadi has four identical sides and entrances on the four directions (north, east, south and west) to the main sanctum, hence the name. Chaturmukha, which means four-faced.

A south-west side view of Chaturmukha Basadi in Karkala, the Tribhuvana Tilaka Jina Chaityalaya or Ratnatraya dhama, in Karkala, Udupi district
A south-west side view of the Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala.

This great temple is quite large in size, with at least around 25 feet in height. This is the largest Basadi and Temple in Karkala. See below picture for an idea of its height compared to that of an average sized man.

Height of the Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala, in comparison to an average sized man. Tribhuvana Tilaka Jina Chaityalaya, in Karkala, Udupi district
One of us stood by the temple for comparing the height of Chaturmukha Basadi to an average sized man. See the person at extreme left for comparison with the temple's size. A stone slab in the premises is seen in the foreground of this picture.

The Chaturmukha basadi of Karkala, completely made of carved granite rocks and wooden doors, stands majestically on top of a rocky hillock. It was built around 1586 CE by Bhairavendra II, the ruler of Kalasa-Karkala.

Close up of the stone slab in the premises on the south-west side of Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala
A close-up of the stone slab in the premises on the south-west side of Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala.

It is surrounded by a high raised platform (Jagati) with a narrow corridor with pillars outside from the ground level, supporting the stone roof and shades above, like a colonnade surrounding the temple. The roof of this temple is flat, with slanted stone shade roof all around it on the outside.

A view of the west side or west face with the west door of Tribhuvana Tilaka Jina Chaityalaya, the Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala, in Udupi district
A view of the west side or west face with the west door of the temple. The west side also features a Halegannada (old Kannada) stone slab inscription placed just before it.

The portico, or the extended area of the plinth at the four entrances and steps, have slanted stone shades and roof which are supported by more pillars. Similar slanted stone shades are typically seen in most of the Jain temples, and also some of the old Hindu temples of the Karavali or Coastal Karnataka region.

Halegannada (old Kannada) stone inscriptions at Chaturmukha Basadi in Karkala, Tribhuvana Tilaka Jina Chaityalaya, in Karkala, Udupi district
A close-up of the Halegannada (Old Kannada) inscriptions on a large monolithic granite slab of about eight feet or more in height, before the west face of the temple

For other examples of these slanted stone shades, see Thousand Pillared Jain Temple of Moodabidri and Chaulikeri Ganapathi Temple of Barkur.

Each pillar or columns of the outer colonnade is monolithic, that is, carved out of a single stone. These pillars are about 18 feet in height and have simple styled carvings which are commonly found in many temples.

The pillars that stand on the raised platform or the jagati, and in the portico before all the four entrances, are carved beautifully with the bas-relief images of Jain and Hindu deities. The walls, doorways also have bas-relief carvings. Even though not as ornate as other temple architectures like the Hoysala or Vijayanagara styles, the Chaturmukha basadi is still a spectacular architecture completely made out of stone.

Relief sculptures of Dwarapalas (door keepers or guards) by the door and other bas-relief sculptures on the walls of the Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala
Splendid relief sculpture of a Dwarapala (door keeper or guard) by the door and other bas-relief sculptures on the walls of the temple. There are not much sculptures on the wall itself and it is mostly smoothly polished granite.

Usually the Hindu and Jain temples have a main entrance, facing the main sanctum housing the main deity, with the main deity facing the direction of the main entrance, while there may be other side entrances or exits also. In most of the Hindu temples, the idol of the deity will be placed in the west end; facing east, the direction of the rising sun, with the main entrance given at the east side.

Splendidly carved lintel over the west side door of the Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala
A close-up of the splendidly carved lintel over the west side door of the temple.

Most of the Jain temples of the region follow this, with the exception that the main entrance may not always be towards east, and the main deity may not always be placed at the western side of the sanctum, facing towards east.

But in a Chaturmukha Basadi, which essentially means a four-faced temple or shrine, all the four entrances in four directions are of identical size and shape, with the carvings on them being the only variation, if any.

Relief sculptures of Dwarapalas (door keepers or guards) by the door and other bas-relief sculptures on the walls of the Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala
Splendid relief sculptures of Dwarapalas (door keepers or guards) by the door and other bas-relief sculptures on the walls of the temple
Beautifully carved designs of the portico of the main entrance to the main sanctum, in the South side of the Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala
Beautifully carved designs of the portico of the main entrance to the main sanctum, in the South side of the temple.
Beautifully carved pillars on the jagati portico of the Chaturmukha Basadi in Karkala
Beautifully carved granite pillars on the jagati portico of the Chaturmukha Basadi.
Beautifully carved pillar featuring the Hindu God Ganapathi or Ganesha on the Chaturmukha Basadi Jain Temple in Karkala
Beautifully carved pillar featuring the Hindu God Ganapathi or Ganesha.
Close-up of a relief sculpture of a dwarapala guardian on the side of a door of Chaturmukha Basadi Jain Temple in Karkala
Close-up of a relief sculpture of a dwarapala guardian on the side of a door
Beautifully carved pillars of Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala Beautifully carved pillars of Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala
Beautifully carved pillars of Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala Beautifully carved pillars of Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala
Beautifully carved pillars of Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala Beautifully carved pillars of Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala
Beautifully carved granite pillars of the Chaturmukha Basadi Jain Temple
A stone Pranala - a discharge outlet for lustral water poured over idols, in Chaturmukha Basadi Jain Temple of Karkala
A stone Pranala - a discharge outlet for lustral water poured over idols, in Chaturmukha Basadi Jain Temple of Karkala.
Steps and balustrades of the east side of the Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala
Steps and balustrades of the east side of the Chaturmukha Basadi.

Inside the main sanctum, there are life-size idols of the Tirthankaras which are carved out of black stone facing all the four doors in four directions. Through the southern door, you can see the Gomatagiri, the hill on which the monolithic Gomateshwara statue is established.

This four faced “chaturmukha” style can be seen in other Jain temples in Karnataka, such as the Ane kere Basadi in Karkala town itself - mentioned above, the Kere basadi Lake Temple at Varanga, and the Chaturmukha basadi at Gerusoppa. And there may be more that we don’t know of yet.

Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala, with the great Bahubali Gommateshwara monolith seen on the hill in the background
West side of Tribhuvana Tilaka Jina Chaityalaya - The Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala, lit by the evening sun, with the great Bahubali Gommateshwara monolith seen on the hill in the background.

The Gomateshwara hill is nearby, featuring the 12.8 metre tall or ~42 feet high monolithic statue of Shri Bahubali, well known as Gommateshwara. This is one of the five monoliths of Gomateshwara in Karnataka.

The largest Gommateshwara monolith is at Shravanabelagola. Others are at Dharmasthala, Venur, and Gommatagiri (near Mysore). At the time of our visit, the statue was surrounded by temporary structure for the Mahamastakabhisheka, which took place towards the end of January this year. This ceremony is held every twelve years, where the statue is bathed and anointed with milk, water, saffron, etc.

The great Bahubali monolith of Karkala, situated on a rocky hill, was erected by king Virapandya of Kalasa-Karkala kingdom in 1432 CE.

Bahubali Gommateshwara monolith, looking towards the Chaturmukha Basadi of Karkala, which is seen at a distance on the hillock
Bahubali the Gommateshwara monolith, looking towards the Chaturmukha Basadi, which is seen at a distance on the hillock.

Karkala is a culturally rich place with several historically significant monuments, and a serene environment. It has all the potential to be a popular tourist destination.

That’s not all folks! From here, we went searching for other significant basadis in Karkala. We will return with the rest of our trip in our next posts »

Continued in:

Tips for Travellers

Getting there & Transportation

Karkala is about 17 kms from Moodabidri, 51 kms from Mangalore (Mangaluru) , 37 kms from Udupi via Moodubelle and 40 kms from Udupi via Manipal-Hiriadka road, 58 kms from Sringeri. Also, Agumbe is ~49 kms ; Venur is ~ 36 kms and Barkur is ~ 49 kms from Karkala.

There are a good number of buses that ply to Karkala from Mangalore, Udupi etc. Hiring a cab or some 4 wheeler is a good option, as you can easily cover other nearby places of attractions worth visiting. If you are visiting Mangaluru or Udupi, then Karkala is well within a day trip. Nearby Moodabidri can also be covered.

See below map for various routes and directions.

Food & Accommodations

There are a few decent places to have food in the town. There aren't much great hotels or lodges in Karkala. However, one can stay in Udupi or Mangaluru, and then travel to Karkala covering other significant places along.

Best Times to visit

During the winter, between October to February or March, before the summer heat begins. It gets extremely hot and humid during summer (March/April to May/June). If you simply love the monsoon rains, go ahead in rainy season (around June to September). But keep an eye on the weather in the rainy season, as the roads this time may be bad.

Location Map of Places to visit in Karkala


Get Directions to Karkala from your place of choice
Note: The directions will open up with Google Maps in a new tab.

Nearby Places and Attractions

Other places in Karkala

Other places and attractions around Karkala

  • Moodabidri - Featuring the Thousand Pillared Jain Temple (Saavira Kambada Basadi), and other historical Jain temples (17 km from Karkala).
  • Varanga (~24 Kilometres from Karkala town) - An idyllic village which is home to the 850 year old Kere Basadi (Lake temple) and the Neminatha Basadi, a 1200 year old Jain Temple.
  • Mangaluru and Dakshina Kannada district features several beaches, temples and other places worth visiting
  • Agumbe – The sunset view point in Agumbe at an elevation of 643 m (2,110 ft) is a very popular spot in Shimoga district.
  • Udupi town and district features the famed sri Krishna temple and other temples, St.Mary's island, an ideal picnic spot, and many more.
  • Chikkamagalur district features lush green mountains, waterfalls and landscapes. Mullayyanagiri, Kemmannugundi, Baba budangiri, Bhadra wildlife and river camps are some of the major attractions. It also has some fine Hoysala Temples, for example the Amrutesvara Temple at Amruthapura.
  • 35 feet Gomateshwara Monolith at Venoor (36 km from Karkala)
  • 39 feet Gomateshwara Monolith and Manjunatheshwara temple at Dharmasthala (63 km from Karkala)


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